Update: After someone telling me in typical Parisian fashion that “there were errors but the post was nice,” I want to share a few updates after chatting with Joël at today’s market.
*Today was the last day of the stand with the entire team
*Joël will return on January 16th and be at the market – himself – to sell the remaining produce until it is gone, then he will no longer be at the market
*He is retiring from the hard manual side of farming but based on his coy reaction and response for what’s next, I think he will still be around (and most likely the VIP chef crowd will be the first to know!)
*Due to a quota for the market, the stand does eventually have to be reallocated to another independent producer instead of a middle-man seller – this is great news.
When I woke up this morning it was like any other day. The sun didn’t rise until nearly 9 o’clock, Grady and I ate a hot cereal mixture of steelcut oats, quinoa and barley and then we were off for our weekly walk to the Marché President Wilson. It’s one of my favorite things to do in Paris and even now after four years, I still feel the same energy and excitement as if I am walking through the market for the very first time.
Perhaps it is that there are always news things to see – or at least new for the season or that now I am trying to talk about everything to Grady. And that was this morning. We bundled up and set off, enjoying the beams of sunlight as we crossed each avenue in the Ètoile roundabout.
I visited C’Bio, chatted with my maraîcher friends there, bought nearly a kilo of kale and then proceeded to move through the market again until I reached Joël’s stand, always located in the middle.
The man who normally makes fun of me and my obsession with buying so much kale (half the time I am buying much more than I need for various book projects) was friendlier than usual. As we worked our way down the tables and I picked out some lettuce, winter radish, beets and a beautiful squash with dark green, nearly black skin, he told me, “Le mercredi prochain, c’est le dernier jour.” Next Wednesday is the last day. I nodded, assuming that Joël and his team would be taking time off for the holidays. They surely deserve it. When I inquired when they would reopen for the new year, he shook his head no. What he meant was next Wednesday is the last day as in the last day for Thiebault vegetables. I paused, staring at him in disbelief, more tongue-tied than usual.
Joël is retiring and there will not be anyone to take over his farm – “it is too big,” I was told. After growing vegetables for the people in and around Paris since 1873 (on land that has been in his family since the 14th century), the Thiebault legacy is coming to an end. Another Ile-de-France producer will be gone. When he passed in front of me, I looked at him in disbelief, “Joel, what is this I hear?” He laughed, smiled at me and walked away, busy as ever as if the news was not a big deal or better yet, not real. He acted as if it’s every day that the most popular vegetable grower for Paris’ top chefs decides to retire. He was so nonchalant, I feel slightly uncomfortable even writing about it.
And of course farmers retire. But when I anticipate buying my produce from his stand every Wednesday morning and think about how beautiful and flavorful it is throughout the week – the realization that this part of my France experience is coming to end was jolting.
I had noticed that there was less offering this season but assumed it was the weather or that perhaps I was not remembering what he had for the winter correctly. Most of the kale had been eaten by pigeons but he hadn’t replanted. There were only a few green and red cabbages and much less rainbow chard and baskets of Brussels sprouts were tiny, clearly picked too early before they were a mature size. Once I was told the news, I realized the tables were being filled with whatever was left.
Aside from the variety, quality and yes his kale (it truly is the best kale available!), Joël has been a big part of my life in France. I can go months without actually talking to him but as I was working on my upcoming book, I realized what an important character he has been for The Kale Project. He was one of the first farmers I spoke with soon after launching the project, welcomed me to his farm while doing research for my cabbage book and his kale was always there, fresh and not too expensive. I never realized how attached I was to the idea of knowing Joël’s produce was always available. How lucky have I been to have had such a reliable producer not far from home with some of the best things the land has to offer?
Paris is losing one of its stars who has spent the last thirty years nourishing its people. I left the market sad, a heavy heart and with most likely the last bunch of Joël’s kale in my bag.
Wednesday, December 16 is the last day for Joël Thiebault’s stand (with full staff)
Joël will be there again starting January 16th to sell the remaining produce until it is gone.
Marché President Wilson
Rebecca says
That’s such sad news! President Wilson market is far from home so I never go, but I remember so fondly that glorious morning we spent together on his lands, how the sun was shining through the cabbage leaves and how muddy our boots were when we got back. His fields and veggies were stunning and I’m so glad I got to photograph them. Thanks for taking me!
Kristen says
I loved our day together!
nicolerowannicole says
Even your sweet little babies face can’t make this post easier to take. What a terrible loss.
Kristen says
yes – let’s not get ahead of ourselves! one is enough for now :)
nicolerowannicole says
I can’t believe I spelled baby’s like that. duh.
Barrett Buss says
Until I saw that top picture I never knew a baby could actually look French.
Kristen says
Haha! Thanks! Totally not what we were going for but someday I will tell her that someone thought she looked “very French” as a baby. When we aren’t living here anymore, I’m sure she will love it!
Almaz says
Is he selling the farm?
Kristen says
Hi Almaz, Not sure. I didn’t ask a lot of questions (I was so surprised) and as usual, they were busy. I hope to find out more next week. They all seemed very nonchalant about it. I just keep hoping they were joking with me!
alexwynnehauet says
This may be a strange question, but how does one say kale in French?
Kristen says
Hi! Not a strange question at all. There are a lot of names for it – which was one of the reasons it was difficult to find when I first moved here. The most common are chou frisé (which then is confused with savoy cabbage or chou de milan), chou plume or chou frisé non-pommé. Over time w/ the press of the vegetable, farmers and journalists have coined le chou kale. Here is more information! http://www.thekaleproject.com/faq/#simple-faq-item-6
Reedy says
I also stop by every week and count myself extremely lucky to have access to such amazing produce for my home cooking. I can’t believe it’s over 😩😩. As you say, the quality of his vegetables is unparalleled, and some varietied are simply impossible to find elsewhere (Tuscan kale/cavolo nero, for instance)…
Kristen says
Yes! So true! All good things must come to an end I guess? For me, just knowing his produce was there was so comforting. I would always think “well, Joel will surely have that…” and I am going to miss his kale – to me, it was always some of the best kale grown. And as we all know, finding dino kale is not easy around here!
Marion says
I have never been to this market but I feel your pain. Thank you for actually caring and for sharing this story and your concern.
Kristen says
Thank you for reading Marion! I hope you and Nicolas are well! xo
Vince Paris says
Hoax ! Il revient le 16 janvier 2016… J’en arrive tout juste de son stand : n’importe quoi cet article !
Kristen says
Thanks Vince! Great news. I never meant this to be a hoax. It’s what I was told and someone else confirmed. Thanks for your comment.
susangish says
Bonjour! We are in Paris and have been following your blog…we are going to that marché this morning!! Maybe we’ll see you there! – Susan & Sam Gish from Philadelphia.
Kristen says
Hi Susan and Sam! How wonderful! Sorry to have missed you. Grady had a meltdown on our way there so I was off nursing to the side of the street to try to calm her down. We eventually made it. I hope you enjoyed the market!